A bored university student by day, a baristo by night, and an aspiring writer round-the-clock.

Friday, 20 November 2009

Samui: A Malaysian's Perspective

THAILAND must be one of the most frequently visited holiday destinations by Malaysians. Perhaps it is due to the fact that it is a mere few hours away. However being raised in the tourist island of Penang myself, I could not help being a little skeptical of Koh Samui. As far as I was concerned, it was just another excuse to hop on the next cheapest flight and get away for a short while.

Having not read any materials about the island, I made my way there one bright Sunday morning in October. The two hour flight on board Firefly from Subang Airport was pleasant and uneventful. My lack of expectations of Samui began to take a slight change of direction when the aircraft began circling the island. What was immediately visible was how clear and clean the waters were (in comparison to the brown, and at times green and murky muck you would find in Penang).

Upon landing, the next noticeable thing was how Samui International Airport could easily be mistaken for a hotel. It was an airport like no other. Without the presence of generic metal structures, air-conditioned halls, and the sound of robot-like female voices announcing boarding calls, the airport was instead a large 'shack' surrounded by greenery and hills where temples overlooked the runway. At this point, Samui was very quickly proving me wrong. However, I did not dare hold my hopes high and continued to anticipate just a slight variation of Penang.

From the airport, I made my way to the Maenam district and checked into Fair House Villas and Spa. The drive into the hotel's property included a bumpy ride on a narrow and hardly-tarred road, passing by small farm houses and construction zones. This alone might prove to some common tourists that the place does not live up to the general expectations one would have of an expensive resort. For myself however, the trip was beginning to look rather refreshing. Perhaps it would not be a typical island getaway after all!

At Fair House, I was greeted with the 'wai', the standard Thai greeting one would receive, especially tourists. I checked into my Beachfront Villa (which costs 20,000 Baht per night on an ordinary day), tipped the staff, and wasted no time to explore the hotel. It was well-equipped, well-decorated, and in tip-top condition. Being an avid non-smoker, I was particularly fond of it's 'carbon-free' policy. As common as it may sound, Fair House was actually able to offer me some peace of mind. Whether it was the clear waters crashing onto the sand, the laid-back ambiance the villa boasted, the ever-smiling Thai, or even the dogs that roamed the beaches, the tourist in me was satisfied.

Leaving the 'chilling under the sun' and 'soaking in the sea' bits for later, I booked a ride into Chaweng town. Along the way, I noticed the usual tourist attractions. But what caught my attention most was the number of 'Family Marts' (a variation of the 7-Eleven stores) available. If you missed one, another outlet would just be a few meters down the road. They were practically all over the place. Another interesting sight was how gasoline was sold along the roads. Something about old, recycled bottles which once contained alcohol or carbonated beverages being filled up with petroleum and sold on a flimsy rack with the word gasoline misspelled on rustic, hand-painted signs intrigued me.

The hotel van dropped me off right in front of Chaweng's McDonald's and Burger King joints. My curiosity led to discovering that McDonald's in Thailand sold pork burgers and Ronald McDonald held both his palms together, offering the 'wai' to whomever passed him. With the exception of the two differences, it was just another McDonald's. I walked on further.

It was a long and narrow road. Hotels were on one side, restaurants, pharmacies, and make-shift stalls were on the other. There was just one too many 'touristy' spots. Keeping my eyes peeled, I noticed other features of the town. Some that would guarantee me that I was not in just another Penang. I began to notice how different the physical environment made a difference in the lives of the locals. Electric cables which were suspended no higher than 30 meters added more risk into an underpaid electrician's job. Men and women bearing heavy baskets of various goods for sale upon their shoulders continuously walked up and down the streets of Chaweng. An ordinary life in Samui would not be deemed acceptable by the standards of a modern man. However, the simplicity of everyday life there can be rather refreshing once you learn to let go of all aspects of modernization. And this was exactly what I did. Without any cellphone roaming services and limited access to the internet, text messages and Facebook were off limits.

It seemed that what the Thai tourism industry is famous for is in fact a reality. Everyone was friendly and hospitable. But, I was keen to know if that friendliness only existed in tourist populated locations. Therefore, I set out to walk beyond the tourist stretch of Chaweng and wandered off into quieter spots in search of more locals offering me the "wai". The additional hour's walk proved to be fruitful. Locals who were not directly working in the tourism industry were equally as friendly. Apart from the friendliness, the Thai people have an extreme sense of respect and adoration for their King. This is one feature that is not easily found in any Malaysian.

Koh Samui at this point, rapidly became a pleasant social surprise. However, there is a threat towards the quaint lifestyle on the island. This threat is none other than the ever increasing sense of commercialism. Small local industries are being taken over or roped in to be a part of large establishments. Corporations such as Tesco provides convenience, but it also takes away some part of the island's warmth.

Moving on, my culinary experience in Samui made my holiday deliciously interesting. From sinking my teeth into the hotel's top notch cuisine at The Bre-Eze, to indulging at popular local restaurants such as the Sabeinglae, almost every dish would awaken your taste buds. One thing was certain, there's no better Tom Yam then the ones you find in Thailand. The Malaysian interpretation of the infamous Thai soup is often a long shot from its roots.

During my 8 days on the island, regardless of the expensive hotel and the good food, every day was a pleasant experience. Thailand, or at least Koh Samui could truly be the epitome of Asian hospitality. Perhaps, Malaysia could pick up a thing or two from the Siamese.

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